PupSchedulePupSchedule › Puppy teething schedule
Puppy teething schedule: when teeth come in and fall out by age
Puppies have two sets of teeth. The first 28 baby teeth arrive quietly before you bring your puppy home. The second set — 42 adult teeth — replaces them between 3 and 6 months. That replacement process is teething, and it is the stage where most owners notice chewing, drooling, and the occasional bloody toy.
The puppy teething timeline at a glance
| Age | What’s happening | Signs you may notice |
|---|---|---|
| 0–2 weeks | No teeth; gums only | Normal nursing behavior; no teething discomfort |
| 3–4 weeks | Baby incisors begin erupting | First needle-like teeth visible; litter play chewing increases |
| 5–6 weeks | Baby canines and premolars arrive | Full set of needle teeth approaching; biting in play becomes sharper |
| 6–8 weeks | All 28 baby teeth in | Complete baby smile; puppy moves to new home around this time |
| 12–16 weeks (3–4 months) | Adult incisors push through; baby incisors start loosening and falling | Increased chewing, drooling, blood spots on toys, swallowed teeth, mild gum soreness |
| 4–5 months | Adult canines and premolars replacing baby teeth | Canine teeth most dramatic; some puppies show brief appetite reduction |
| 5–6 months | Adult molars arrive (no baby molar equivalents); final adult teeth complete | Chewing drive often peaks; redirect firmly to appropriate chews |
| 6–7 months | All 42 adult teeth should be in place | Chewing intensity typically eases; retained baby teeth visible if any remain |
Timing varies by breed and individual. Large breeds tend to complete teething earlier than small and toy breeds. Always confirm developmental concerns with your veterinarian.
Baby teeth: the set that comes first
Puppies have 28 deciduous (baby) teeth arranged as follows:
- 12 incisors — the small front teeth, 6 upper and 6 lower
- 4 canines — the pointed “fang” teeth, 2 upper and 2 lower
- 12 premolars — the side chewing teeth, 6 upper and 6 lower
No baby molars. Puppies go straight from premolars to adult molars when the adult set arrives.
Baby teeth are sharper and thinner than adult teeth, which is why puppy biting feels so piercing even though puppies have less jaw strength than adult dogs. The sharpness is deliberate: it helps puppies learn bite inhibition from littermate feedback before they have adult jaw power. This is one reason removing a puppy from the litter too early can lead to bite inhibition problems later.
Adult teeth: the permanent set
Adult dogs have 42 teeth:
- 12 incisors (same count as baby set)
- 4 canines (same count as baby set)
- 16 premolars (4 more than baby set)
- 10 molars (no baby equivalent — new arrivals)
The extra premolars and the molars are what account for the jump from 28 to 42 teeth. Adult teeth are broader, more robust, and designed for the mechanical demands of adult chewing. Their arrival is driven by the growth of the adult tooth root pushing against the baby tooth root, dissolving it, and causing the baby tooth to loosen and fall.
What to expect during active teething (3–6 months)
This is the window most owners mean when they say their puppy is “teething.” It is real physical discomfort, and it drives real behavior:
- Increased chewing: Counter surfing, furniture corners, shoes, electrical cords, and hands all become targets. This is not defiance; it is pain-relieving behavior.
- Drooling more than usual: Gum inflammation causes extra saliva. Some puppies drool noticeably; others not at all.
- Blood on toys: When a baby tooth is working loose, the gum tissue tears slightly as the tooth exits. A spot of blood on a chew toy is expected. The tooth is often swallowed — this is harmless.
- Sensitivity around the mouth: Some puppies resist brushing, nail trims (because they want to chew), and handling around the face more than usual during peak teething.
- Brief appetite changes: A few days of picking at food can happen when canines are coming through. If this lasts more than 2–3 days, mention it to your vet.
Teething is also a developmental regression window. A puppy who was doing well with potty training or crate settling may have a rough patch. Keep the routine consistent — the regression usually passes as the teeth settle.
What helps: chewing that works
The single most effective tool during teething is appropriate chew outlets. Puppies who can chew something satisfying are less likely to chew something wrong.
- Rubber chew toys (e.g., Kong): Especially effective frozen with a bit of wet food or peanut butter (no xylitol). The cold reduces inflammation.
- Frozen washcloths: Cheap, effective, and easy to replace. Soak, twist, freeze, supervise. Discard when frayed.
- Nylon chews: More durable than rubber; good for puppies who destroy softer toys quickly. Choose puppy-grade sizes and replace when they show significant wear.
- Bully sticks and natural chews: Fine in moderation under supervision. Monitor for splintering and size the chew so the puppy cannot swallow it whole.
Avoid during puppy teething:
- Cooked bones — cook-softened bone splinters into shards that can perforate the gut
- Antlers and hard nylon designed for adult power chewers — too hard for puppy teeth; can fracture
- Ice cubes — too hard for small teeth; frozen soft chews are safer
- Rawhide from low-quality sources — choking risk and digestive concerns
- Toys small enough to be swallowed whole
Redirecting chewing: the consistent response
Every time the puppy puts teeth on something they should not, the response is the same: calmly remove access to the wrong target, immediately offer an appropriate chew, and briefly redirect attention to the chew. No long scolding, no dramatic reaction, no waiting. Consistency is what teaches the rule, not intensity.
If the puppy is biting hands during play, the classic guidance is to yelp and pause play, wait until the puppy is calm, then resume. Do not keep playing through biting. Every interrupted play session is a lesson. The puppy training timeline walks through the stages of bite inhibition as a broader skill set.
Retained baby teeth: when to call the vet
A retained baby tooth is one that has not fallen out by the time its adult replacement is erupting. It is most common with canines — you may see the adult canine coming in just behind or beside the baby canine, giving the puppy what looks like a double fang.
Retained teeth cause real problems:
- Two teeth occupying one socket crowd each other; food and tartar pack in between, accelerating gum disease
- The adult tooth may be forced into an abnormal position, affecting bite and jaw alignment
- Retained canines are the most common and most likely to need extraction
If you see a double tooth at any age, especially after 5 months, schedule a veterinary exam. Extraction of the retained baby tooth is usually straightforward, particularly if done before the adult tooth is fully in. Many vets recommend doing it under the same anesthesia as spay/neuter if timing aligns. This is also worth discussing at the vaccine visits scheduled in the puppy vaccine schedule.
Dental care starts now, not later
Periodontal disease is the most common health problem in adult dogs, and it starts during the first year. The habits established now — brushing tolerance, routine exams, appropriate chews — determine how clean adult teeth stay for the next decade.
Starting a brushing habit
The goal is a puppy who accepts a brush in their mouth without a struggle. Introduce it in small steps:
- Let the puppy sniff and lick the toothpaste off your finger for a few days
- Run your finger gently along the gum line once the puppy is comfortable
- Introduce the brush against the outer tooth surface only — a few seconds, then a reward
- Work up to 30–60 seconds, targeting the upper teeth first (lower teeth are easier and can come later)
Use enzymatic pet toothpaste (chicken, vanilla, or beef flavors work well for most puppies). Never use human toothpaste — fluoride is toxic to dogs at the amounts they would ingest. Daily brushing is the goal; even three times a week makes a real difference versus nothing.
Professional cleanings
Your veterinarian will assess teeth at annual exams and recommend professional cleanings when tartar buildup reaches a threshold. Early-life brushing habits dramatically reduce how often professional cleaning is needed. Start now and it pays off for the dog’s whole life.
How teething fits into the overall puppy schedule
Teething does not exist in isolation. The 3–6 month window overlaps with the end of the socialization period, the completion of the core vaccine series, the transition to adult food (usually around 12 months for most breeds), and the active phase of potty training and crate training. The puppy schedule by age shows how the full day is structured during this stage so you can slot dental care and enrichment into a routine that already has training, meals, naps, and walks in it.
The key interaction: teething puppies need MORE physical outlets (puppy exercise schedule), more mental engagement, and more redirection — all of which happen best when the rest of the day is predictable. A routine built around the puppy’s natural awake–nap cycle prevents the overtired, over-stimulated teething meltdowns that make owners feel like nothing is working.
Frequently asked questions
When do puppies start teething?
Puppies are born without teeth. Baby teeth (deciduous teeth) begin erupting around 3–4 weeks of age. By 6–8 weeks, a full set of 28 baby teeth is usually present. The chewing and discomfort most owners associate with teething typically peaks between 3 and 6 months, when adult teeth push through and baby teeth fall out.
When do puppies lose their baby teeth?
Most puppies begin losing baby teeth around 12–16 weeks (3–4 months). The incisors go first, then canines, then premolars. By 6 months, all 42 adult teeth should be in. If baby teeth are still present alongside adult teeth at 6–7 months, mention it to your veterinarian — retained baby teeth can cause alignment and gum problems.
How do I help a teething puppy?
Offer appropriate chew toys: rubber toys, nylon chews, frozen washcloths, or puppy-safe rope toys. Avoid cooked bones (splintering risk), ice cubes for very young puppies (too hard), antlers (too hard), and anything that doesn’t flex at all. Rotate toys to keep interest. Redirect chewing from furniture and hands to toys consistently — every time, same response.
Is it normal for a puppy to bleed when teething?
Small amounts of blood on a toy when a baby tooth loosens is normal and expected. You may also notice the puppy swallowing a tooth — that is fine. Excessive bleeding, significant swelling, a puppy that stops eating due to mouth pain, or a tooth that doesn’t fall out on schedule should be evaluated by a veterinarian.
When should I start brushing my puppy’s teeth?
The earlier the better — ideally from the first week home, even before adult teeth arrive. Use a puppy-specific toothbrush and enzymatic pet toothpaste (never human toothpaste). Daily brushing is the gold standard; anything is better than nothing. Introduce it gradually with plenty of positive reinforcement so the puppy accepts it as part of normal handling.
A note from us: Always confirm teething concerns, tooth eruption timing, and dental care plans with your veterinarian — individual variation by breed and health is significant. PupSchedule is a planning tool, not a substitute for veterinary care.
Get your puppy’s schedule built for you
PupSchedule is live in your browser — free, no download. Open the app and your puppy’s full schedule is built automatically from their birthday.
iOS coming soon — leave your email and we’ll let you know when it’s on the App Store.